Feeding

• Always ensure that adequate quality forage is available to allow normal digestive tract functions. Wild burros typically come from areas of low quality forage. It is recommended to feed a good quality grass hay or a grass/alfalfa mix. High protein legume hay can cause serious problems for your burro.
  
  
• Do not feed your burro straw hay, unless it is part of an overall nutrition plan, including protein supplements, and the feeding strategy under the direction of a veterinarian, or qualified animal nutritionist.
  
  
• Feed a balanced supplement in addition to forage when required to meet your burro's nutritional needs.
  
  
• Your burro is used to eating small meals often, because they spent most of their lives foraging throughout the day. It is desirable to feed them small rations three to four times a day. This may not always be practical, so at a minimum, divide daily rations into at least two feedings, one in the morning and one in the evening.
  
  
• Always have plenty of fresh, clean water available. Keep the water trough clean and free of dirt and algae.
  
  
• Remember that your burro is an individual. Check his body condition regularly and adjust supplementary feed intakes accordingly. Use feeding recommendations as a guide only.
• Your burros digestive tract function is finely balanced. Changes to your burros diet should be done gradually. Introduce new feed over at least a 2 to 3 week period. A quick change in feed may cause digestive upset such as indigestion and colic.
  
  
• Feed grain with caution as rapid introduction of high levels of grain can lead to severe digestive problems. If your burro is not a working animal, grain is not required, but may be introduced in small quantities as a treat.
  
  
• Provide a rack, trough or bucket for your burro to eat from. Feeding on the ground will increase the chances of your burro ingesting dirt and sand. If possible, place a mat under the feeder so the burro can eat spillage without contamination.
  
  
• Don't feed burros hot, moldy hay, or grass clippings, as these can be dangerous to your burro.
  
  
• A young growing burro and jennies in foal require careful feeding for health and growth. Supplemental feeding may be required to assure the proper required minerals for proper development.
  
  
• Put a trace mineral salt block in the corral so that the burro can access salt when they want to.
  
  
• Burros will overeat. Contrary to popular belief, burros can founder (lameness caused by inflammation of the laminae that cover the pedal bone inside the hoof). An animal can founder from eating excessive amounts of grain or lush pasture. Being an obese burro can be just as serious as being malnourished. Normally, burros with excess weight will have pones (deposits of fat under the skin). The donkey, like the camel has pouches to store excess food, thus enabling them to go long distances without feed through the desert. The burro's main pouches are located just below the top line of the neck running from just behind the ears to the withers. The neck roll is quite common in older and overweight burros. A really obese burro will also show pones on his hind quarters, and across its ribs. These are visible signs of a more serious problem. Fat also accumulates around the internal organs and hampers their natural function. This can lead to serious health problems.

If you have questions as to your burros condition and health, contact your veterinarian to assist you in developing a dietary plan for your burro.

Grooming

• Grooming is part of a wild burros natural behavior. It stimulates blood circulation, which produces better flow of nutrients to the skin.
  
  
• Burros roll in wallows or dust baths to increase insulation and ward off insects. Some dirt in their coat is normal. Caked on mud and matted hair should be removed with a good brushing.
  
  
• Your burro is a desert animal. It may prefer to wallow in the dust rather then be washed off with water.
  
  
• Being that mutual grooming is a social aspect in a burro's life, grooming your burro will aid in its acceptance of you as a friend.

Hoof Care

• A burro in the wild has hard sturdy feet that are naturally trimmed as they move through the rough, rocky terrain. Once a burro stands in a corral and does not have freedom of movement, its hooves will begin to elongate and hoof trimming will be required. Hooves should be trimmed at least every six to eight weeks.
  
  
• When you go to the adoption site, look at a burro's feet. You will notice burros tend to stand on their toes a little more than horses do. When trimming your burro's hooves, trim them to what is natural for a burro.
  
  
• Hoof care for burros is similar to that of horses. Hooves should be cleaned regularly. Using a hoof pick, clean the debris from the under side of the hoof. Under normal circumstances, shoes are rarely required. Hard working burros that pack heavy loads on hard terrain, may require shoeing to prevent wear on your burros hooves. Excessive wear will cause your burro to become tender-footed making it painful when it walks. Contact your farrier for proper hoof care needs.

Things to Consider

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